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Fabric makers get feel for texture of Proposte

New textural effects achieved through yarn developments, a definite move toward more traditional looks, albeit with a contemporary twist and a major move of denim in a variety of interpretations were the noteworthy trends at Proposte, the high-end, decorative fabrics show featuring primarily Italian mills.

For a number of visitors to Proposte, new textural interest was created by crimping and shrinking yarns that offered a fresh approach to texture and a move away from the dominance of chenille.

Additionally, buyers noted a definite movement to traditional looks, but with an updated approach to the motif or the ground cloth that often was a crinkled ground.

Denim was a fabric of fashion interest often combined with other fabric weaves. And silk and silky looks in synthetics were an important highlight.

As for color, it was red, red and more red — often with an orangy cast. But deep, rich jewel tone colors and spa shades with luster also were seen as important directions.

For the textured segment, said Jason Asch, owner of Diamond Foam, "there was even loopy stuff like mid-century poodle cloth bringing new interest to textures."

Noting that it was "one of the best Proposte's I've been to," Andy Pacuk, senior vp, The Robert Allen Group, said, "There were a lot of innovative constructions with shrink yarns, and raffia was all over the place. We also saw a lot of silk, silk blends and high-luster silks at reasonable prices."

Glenda Soloniuk, vp, merchandising at Richloom, said, "There was more inspiration this year than last. There was an important combination of finishing and yarn development — matelasse puckers and surface interest with reflectiveness. There was more surface interest with reflectiveness."

Nina Butkin, vp, design for Fabricut, said, "Everything had a nice hand — soft and agreeable. On the whole it was not overwhelming in terms of new looks."

Tom Roth, owner of Weathervane Hill/Roth Fabrics, pointed to the more subtle effect of the crinkled and shrunk yarns of the new textures.

From a design perspective, traditional looks definitely were in the forefront — but with a contemporary twist. As Robert Allen's Pacuk said, "Where there would previously have been a bouquet, now it is a single flower. It's familiar feelings updated."

"There was lots of innovative puckered interpretations of classic traditional design — and a lot of stripes," Fabricut's Butkin added.

Looking at the color stories, most of the buyers noted the continued prevalence of the red family. "It was red, no doubt," said Pacuk. "People just love red. But we also saw a new family of jewel tones — black, red and green — that are definitely derivative of an Oriental influence."

Asch said: "Greens were important in the grassy shades, and naturals that looked like the bark of eucalyptus trees were important. Yellows were absolutely important, but not the chartreuse shades or sunflower — more dusty; and turquoise blue was a good new color along with cornflower blue."

Overall, said Richloom's Soloniuk, "the deep blueberries, reds and golds and the shades of lavenders and yellow will be important as European cultural colors. Everything will definitely affect January's Showtime introductions."

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